OneUp pedály + karbonové kliky SRAM

To mě zajímá. Proč by nemohl být hliníkový pedál kompatibilní s karbonovou klikou?

Kdyby si chtěl někdo počíst, toto je odpověď OneUp:

Short version:

Older versions of these pedals have variable compatibility with SRAM carbon cranks. There is a revision in place that makes them fully compatible with carbon cranks.

We extended the axle threads 1mm and made the flange washer 1mm thicker as well. This effectively spaces the pedal 1mm further outboard, meaning the bearing flange has more clearance from the crank.

Long Version:

In fact, the pedals before were „usually“ compatible with carbon cranks.

We put a blanket incompatibility on them for a brief period because a few people were having trouble with the pedal tightening to the crank before the axle would tighten meaning the pedal could back itself off the crank.

What we found was that SRAM carbon cranks can have varying counterbore depths for the pedal thread insert. This variance was probably within SRAM's spec but because our pedals already had a tight tolerance to the crank there isn't much room for more variance in spacing.

If this counterbore is on the deep side of SRAM's accepted tolerance our pedal body could bind up on the crank before the axle can properly preload to the crank.

When this happens the pedal will feel very stiff to rotate.

Because the axle never tightens, the backpressure of the pedal rubbing on the crank is enough to back off the pedal to the point where it falls off. In this situation, there is potential for damage to the crank, pedal, and body.

The thing to remember here is that not all SRAM cranks have a deep enough counterbore to cause this incompatibility.

However, due to the variable nature of installing our alloy pedals on SRAM carbon cranks, we have decided to have a blanket incompatibility.

On pedals before the revision, you could still run them on carbon cranks, you just needed to confirm the following before setting off on a ride: Make sure that when you're installing them there is a gap between the crank and pedal body.

If there is no gap, and the pedal is stiff to rotate then you can try 1 pedal washer to space it off. (important to note here our pedals do rotate slowly as is, but when I say stiff, I mean nearly not spinning or putting force to make them spin.)

If you find with 1 pedal washer the pedal body is still touching the crank arm and the rotation is stiff then unfortunately the counterbore is too deep to safely run our pedals.

Do not run 2 pedal washers. If you can tighten the pedals up to 35nm, the pedal spins freely, then you can confidently ride that setup.

The revision cut in at the start of 2022. so any pedals with a date code 1222 and later (code is 12th week or 2022) will have the longer axle and thicker flange washer. The compatibility warning has also been removed from the box now as well.

Because the pedal design is still the same, it's always worth double-checking the rotation and clearance of these pedals, but the revision did solve the incompatibility issue for nearly all carbon cranks.

Crank boots still need to be cut out to clear the pedal, but otherwise, these are good to go.

Hope this helps to explain, let me know how it goes.